A succulent terrarium is an open glass container designed with drainage layers, fast-draining soil, and drought-tolerant succulents. Succulents require airflow and low humidity, which is why open terrariums are essential, as closed containers trap moisture and cause rot.
To make a succulent terrarium, start by layering gravel and activated charcoal for drainage, add a gritty soil mix, plant compact succulents with space for airflow, and water sparingly. When built correctly, a succulent terrarium stays healthy, decorative, and low-maintenance for months or even years.
A drainage layer (gravel or small stones)
Activated charcoal and fast-draining soil
Compact, drought-tolerant succulents
Minimal water and bright, indirect light
When selecting succulents for a terrarium, choose plants that stay compact, tolerate dry conditions, and offer visual contrast. Shape, colour, and growth habit matter because they determine how balanced and interesting the arrangement looks over time.
Echeveria are among the most popular rosette succulents, and for good reason. Their compact, symmetrical form and wide range of colours make them a natural focal point in a terrarium. Some varieties display pastel blues and greens, while others show striking pink or red edges when grown in bright light.
These plants prefer open terrariums because they dislike excess humidity. They thrive in gritty, well-draining soil and need several hours of direct sunlight daily. On a south-facing windowsill, they maintain their vibrant colours and tight rosette shape.
Overcrowding should be avoided, as poor airflow can cause rot. Smaller cultivars such as Echeveria ‘Lola’ or Echeveria ‘Perle von Nurnberg’ fit especially well in glass bowls or shallow dishes. With the right light and minimal watering, they can stay compact and healthy for years.
Burro’s Tail is a trailing succulent that adds movement and depth to a terrarium. Its stems can reach 30–60 cm over time, each covered in plump, bead-like leaves. The cascading growth softens the edges of a container and complements upright or rosette-shaped plants.
This succulent prefers bright, indirect light. Direct midday sun can scorch the delicate leaves, but insufficient light causes the stems to stretch and lose their dense appearance. A position near an east-facing window usually provides the right balance.
The leaves are fragile and detach easily, so the leaves should be handled carefully during planting. Once established, the plant is low-maintenance and drought-tolerant. Occasional watering when the soil is fully dry is enough to keep it thriving.
Crassula ovata ‘Minima’ is a dwarf variety of the classic Jade Plant. It grows slowly, reaching about 60 cm at maturity, making it suitable for terrariums where space is limited. Its small, fleshy leaves are glossy green with red tinges at the edges in bright light.
This plant is often chosen because it is hardy and easy to maintain. It tolerates occasional neglect, needing only well-draining soil and full sun to partial shade. Watering should be infrequent, as overwatering is the main cause of problems.
Beyond its practical benefits, the Jade Plant is often associated with good luck and prosperity. Including a compact variety like ‘Minima’ brings both aesthetic appeal and cultural symbolism to a terrarium.
Haworthia, often called Zebra Plants, are excellent for terrariums because they tolerate lower light levels compared to many other succulents. Their dark green leaves marked with bold white stripes create a striking contrast in small arrangements.
These succulents stay compact, rarely exceeding 10–15 cm in height, which makes them easy to fit into shallow containers. They also adapt well to indoor conditions, thriving even in spots where direct sunlight is limited.
Bright, indirect light should still be provided, and the soil should be allowed to dry between waterings. Haworthia are forgiving plants, making them a safe choice for beginners or for adding texture alongside rosette succulents like Echeveria.
The Panda Plant stands out with its fuzzy, grey-green leaves edged in brown. The velvety texture adds a different element to a terrarium, contrasting nicely with smoother-leaved succulents.
This plant is highly drought-tolerant and stores water in its thick leaves. It thrives in bright light but can adapt to filtered light indoors. Misting and frequent watering should be avoided, as moisture on the leaves can lead to rot.
Kalanchoe tomentosa grows slowly, usually reaching 30–45 cm over several years, so it won’t quickly outgrow a terrarium. Its unusual appearance and easy care make it a reliable choice for beginners and collectors alike.
String of Pearls is instantly recognisable for its round, bead-like leaves that trail elegantly from thin stems. In a terrarium, it creates a hanging or draping effect that contrasts with upright plants.
This succulent requires careful watering. Its small, spherical leaves store water but are prone to rot if the soil stays damp for too long. Water sparingly and ensure the substrate dries completely between waterings.
Bright, indirect light is best to maintain compact growth. Direct sun can scorch the pearls, while low light causes them to stretch and lose their neat appearance. With proper care, it provides a unique and eye-catching feature in a succulent terrarium.
Sempervivum, also known as Hens and Chicks, form attractive clusters of rosettes. The main rosette (the “hen”) produces small offsets (the “chicks”) that spread around it, gradually filling the container with a natural, clustered look.
These succulents are hardy and adapt well to different conditions, though they prefer bright light and excellent drainage. Their leaves range from green to deep red, offering colour variation without needing multiple species.
Note: Sempervivum performs best outdoors or in very bright, cool conditions and may decline indoors over time.
It is worth noting that individual rosettes die after flowering, but the offsets continue to grow and replace them. This cycle makes Sempervivum a sustainable and low-maintenance option for terrariums. Their compact, spreading habit is especially effective in shallow, wide containers.
Creating a succulent terrarium involves preparing proper drainage layers, selecting compact plants, and managing water carefully. Following the steps below helps prevent root rot, improves airflow, and keeps the terrarium visually balanced over time.
Start with healthy succulent cuttings or small rooted plants that are free of pests and rot. Compact succulents such as Echeveria, Haworthia, and Sedum varieties adapt best to shallow containers and limited space.
If using cuttings instead of rooted plants, allow the cut ends to callus for one to two days before planting. This prevents moisture from entering the wound and causing rot. Avoid succulents that grow too large, as they will quickly outgrow the terrarium.
If cuttings have small offsets or pups, these can be separated to create accent plants and add variation in size and texture.
Because most glass terrariums lack drainage holes, a drainage layer is essential. Add a 1–2 inch layer of gravel, river stones, or small pebbles to the bottom of the container to collect excess water.
Place a thin layer of activated charcoal on top of the gravel. This helps filter moisture, reduces odours, and discourages mould growth. For a cleaner visual separation, a thin layer of fine horticultural sand can be added above the charcoal.
Succulents require fast-draining soil to prevent soggy roots. Use a cactus or succulent potting mix rather than standard compost, which retains too much moisture.
Spread the soil evenly over the drainage layers to a depth of about 2–3 inches, depending on container size. Avoid compacting the soil, as loose structure improves airflow and drainage.
For wide or shallow containers, slope the soil slightly toward the back to create depth and improve visibility of taller plants.
Place the largest succulent first, positioning it toward the centre or back to act as a focal point. Add medium-sized plants around it, leaving space between each plant to allow airflow.
Create small planting holes using a spoon or stick, and set each cutting deep enough to support the base without burying the leaves. Overcrowding should be avoided, as restricted airflow increases the risk of rot.
Mix textures and forms for visual interest. Upright plants pair well with rosette shapes, while trailing succulents such as String of Pearls or Sedum burrito work well near container edges.
Finish the surface with decorative stones, gravel, or sand to stabilise the soil and improve appearance. This layer also helps prevent soil movement during watering.
Natural decorative elements such as driftwood, shells, or preserved moss can be added sparingly. Live moss is not suitable for open succulent terrariums, as it requires more moisture than succulents can tolerate.
Avoid overcrowding the surface, as open areas help maintain a natural, balanced look.
Use a spray bottle or small spout watering can to direct water at the soil rather than the leaves. Wet foliage in enclosed spaces increases the risk of rot.
Add only enough water to lightly moisten the soil without flooding the drainage layer. Succulents prefer dry conditions, and it is safer to underwater than overwater. Over time, it becomes easier to judge how much water the terrarium requires.
Provide plenty of bright, indirect light. Direct sun through glass can burn the leaves, so a windowsill with filtered light or a bright desk works best.
Watering is where most people go wrong. Succulents store water in their leaves, so watering should be done sparingly. A good rule is to wait until the soil feels completely dry.
Watch for signs:
Sealed glass containers should be avoided, as they trap humidity. Open terrariums allow air to move freely, which keeps the roots healthier.
Maintenance is simple but important. Trim back overgrown plants to keep the arrangement tidy. Any dead or decaying leaves should be removed quickly to stop rot spreading.
It’s also worth checking for pests such as mealybugs. If pests appear, gently wipe leaves with a cotton bud dipped in rubbing alcohol.
By monitoring light, water, temperature, and airflow, the terrarium remains balanced, and the succulents stay healthy.
Start with the drainage layer. More succulent terrariums fail from poor drainage than from any other cause; the lack of holes in most glass containers means excess water has nowhere to go without a properly layered base. Gravel, charcoal, and a gritty soil mix are not optional extras; they are the foundation the entire system depends on.
In our experience at Miyagi Bonsai, the second most common mistake is choosing plants for appearance without checking their light requirements. Echeveria and Burro’s Tail need several hours of bright light daily to maintain their colour and compact form. In a north-facing room without a grow light, Haworthia and Crassula ‘Minima’ will consistently outlast them. Match the plant to the position before the container is even chosen.
Miyagi Bonsai stocks a carefully chosen range of succulent terrarium kits, open glass containers, cactus and succulent soil mixes, and individual succulent plants, with next working day UK delivery available on most orders. The products and recommendations in this guide reflect what we stock, use and see working for our customers every day. We are rated 5 stars across over 100 Google reviews, and our team is on hand by email and phone if you have any questions about succulent selection, terrarium setup, or ongoing care.
Succulent terrariums often raise questions about plant selection, layering, watering, and long-term care. The answers below address the most common questions people ask when learning how to make a succulent terrarium, including which succulents work best, how to build the layers correctly, and how to maintain a healthy terrarium indoors.
A proper terrarium starts with a drainage layer. Pebbles, gravel, or sand at the bottom prevent roots from sitting in water.
Next, we add a thin filtration layer such as activated charcoal or sphagnum moss. This reduces odours and slows mould growth.
Above that, a divider like mesh or moss keeps the soil separate. Finally, we place a well-draining soil mix made for cacti and succulents.
We can create a mini desert scene with sand layers and small stones. Adding coloured gravel or decorative rocks gives contrast.
For a playful touch, we can design a fairy garden terrarium with miniature figurines, tiny benches, or novelty mushrooms.
Mixing different plant heights and colours also helps us build a natural landscape effect inside the glass.
For large terrariums, we should mix dwarf varieties with taller species to create depth. Small plants like Hens and Chicks or Blue Chalk Sticks pair well with taller options like the Ming Thing cactus.
Spacing is important. Leaving at least 2–3 cm between roots prevents overcrowding and improves air circulation.
Water sparingly. Succulent terrariums need the soil to dry fully before the next watering. Overwatering is the most common cause of root rot.
Keep the terrarium in bright, indirect sunlight. Direct sun through glass can scorch the leaves.
Remove fallen leaves and dust the plants occasionally. Using a straw or soft brush helps us keep everything clean without disturbing the arrangement.
Yes, there are many DIY terrarium kits that include glass containers, gravel, soil, and sometimes even succulents. These kits are especially useful for beginners who want all the essentials in one package.
Some kits also include decorative extras like moss, coloured sand, or fairy garden pieces, which makes it easy for us to personalise the design without buying everything separately.
No, succulents are not suitable for closed terrariums. Succulents evolved in dry, arid environments and require good airflow, low humidity, and soil that dries out completely between waterings. A closed terrarium traps moisture and creates the high humidity that causes succulents to develop root rot rapidly. Always use an open terrarium with no lid, or at minimum a container with a wide opening that allows free air movement. Humidity-loving plants such as mosses, ferns, and fittonia are the correct choice for closed terrariums. Combining succulents with these species in any setup, open or closed, will result in one group declining as its moisture requirements conflict with the other.
A well-built succulent terrarium can last one to several years with appropriate care. The main factors that determine longevity are correct drainage layering, infrequent watering, and sufficient light. Succulents in terrariums without drainage holes are more vulnerable to root rot and typically have a shorter lifespan than those in pots. With a properly layered base, the right soil, and bright indirect light, most succulent terrariums remain healthy and visually attractive for at least one to two years before individual plants need replacing or the arrangement needs refreshing. Fast-growing species such as Sempervivum may need trimming or thinning sooner than slower-growing varieties like Haworthia or Crassula ‘Minima’.
A commercial cactus or succulent potting mix is the most reliable starting point for a succulent terrarium. These mixes are formulated to drain quickly and dry out between waterings, which is essential for succulent health. Standard multipurpose compost retains too much moisture and should not be used. For even better drainage, add 20–30% perlite or coarse horticultural grit to a cactus mix — this improves aeration and reduces the risk of waterlogging in containers without drainage holes. Avoid mixes with added moisture-retaining crystals or fertiliser pellets, as both can cause problems in the low-water conditions succulents prefer.
Water a succulent terrarium only when the soil feels completely dry; typically every two to four weeks in spring and summer, and every four to six weeks in autumn and winter. Succulents store water in their leaves and stems, so they tolerate drought far better than overwatering. In a glass container without drainage holes, the risk of waterlogging is higher than in a standard pot, so caution is especially important. When watering, direct water at the soil surface rather than the leaves, add only enough to lightly moisten the soil without saturating the drainage layer, and allow the container to dry fully before watering again. Wrinkled or shrivelled leaves indicate the plant needs water; mushy or translucent leaves indicate overwatering.
