The four most artistic and technically demanding bonsai styles are: Exposed Roots (Neagari), where the root system rises visibly above the soil to suggest erosion and age; Raft Style (Netsunagari), where a fallen trunk regenerates as multiple connected trunks; Root-Over-Rock (Sekijoju), where roots grip and cascade over a rock into the soil below; and Forest Style (Yose-Ue), where multiple individual trees are planted together to create a miniature woodland.
All four require advanced wiring skills, long development timelines of five years or more, and a deep understanding of natural tree growth patterns. Advanced bonsai styles capture nature’s most dramatic moments in miniature form.
Imagine roots gripping exposed soil, trunks flowing like fallen logs, or tiny forests rising from a single pot. They reveal how patience, precision, and creativity transform ordinary plants into living landscapes.
We explore how these complex bonsai styles differ from the classic upright forms. Each demands careful technique and a deep understanding of natural growth patterns. Developed from observing trees in challenging environments, they invite us to recreate nature’s resilience and balance on a small scale.
At Miyagi Bonsai, we have practised and taught Neagari, Netsunagari, Sekijoju, and Yose-ue for decades. These styles are where bonsai moves from horticulture into genuine art; and the patience they demand is exactly what makes them the most rewarding forms in the practice.
We shape the Neagari, or Exposed Roots Style, to highlight the strength and adaptability of a tree. This approach reveals the roots above the soil, creating a natural image of trees standing firm after years of erosion and weathering. It combines technical skill with patient refinement to achieve balance and realism.
In this style, the roots rise visibly above the soil, often extending one-half to two-thirds of the tree’s total height. They appear as natural extensions of the trunk, giving the impression of a tree gripping the ground for survival. The design imitates trees growing on slopes or riverbanks where water and wind have worn away the soil.
Visual impact:
Aesthetic features:
Each root must move harmoniously, creating a natural rhythm. Straight, vertical roots look artificial, so gentle curves and variation help achieve a lifelike appearance.
We start with young, flexible trees such as Japanese Black Pine, Trident Maple, Japanese Maple, or Azalea. Starting from seed or cuttings gives better control over root placement. Trees with strong, thick root systems respond best to shaping and exposure.
Step-by-step approach:
Year 1 – Initial setup
Years 2–3 – Progressive exposure
Years 4+ – Shaping and refinement
Common challenges and solutions:
| Challenge | Solution |
|---|---|
| Crossing or misdirected roots | Remove early or graft new roots in better positions |
| Fine feeder roots dominating | Use purpose-grown material instead of collected trees |
| Roots not thickening | Encourage vigorous growth and proper fertilisation |
Expect 5–10 years from seedling to mature composition. Pines take longer than deciduous species, but patience rewards us with a striking, lifelike bonsai. Cascade or semi-cascade forms pair beautifully with this style, letting foliage sit close to the exposed roots for added visual depth.
We use the Raft Style, or Netsunagari, to recreate how trees naturally regenerate after falling. This method produces several upright trunks from one horizontal base, forming a miniature grove that shares a single root system. It captures the look of resilience and regeneration seen in forests after storms or erosion.
The Raft Style imitates a fallen tree that continues to live as its upward branches become new trunks. Each trunk varies in height and thickness, giving the impression of a small, unified forest. The original trunk lies horizontally, often buried beneath the soil, while new roots form along its underside.
There are two main variations of this style:
Ikadabuki (Straight-Line Raft)
Netsunagari (Sinuous Root Connected)
This style draws inspiration from trees toppled by wind, snow, or erosion. The Japanese White Pine raft created by Isaburo Nishiyama in 1937 is a famous early example that helped define Netsunagari as distinct from the clump style.
We start by selecting suitable species. Deciduous trees like Japanese Maple, Trident Maple, Elm, or Hawthorn root easily. Conifers such as Japanese White Pine, Needle Juniper, and Spruce also work but need more time. Ideal candidates are trees that root from trunk contact or produce suckers.
Preparation Steps:
Planting Process:
Development Timeline:
A helpful tip is to sketch the layout before starting. Planning which branches will serve as main trunks prevents wasted effort and ensures a balanced, natural-looking raft.
We create the Root-Over-Rock style, or Sekijoju, by training tree roots to grow over and around a rock before reaching the soil. This method highlights the tree’s endurance and adaptability while turning rock and root into a single, balanced composition.
In this style, the tree appears to grip the rock tightly, with roots exposed and cascading down natural grooves and crevices into the soil below. The rock becomes part of the tree’s identity rather than a background element. The visual effect shows struggle, stability, and resilience in a confined space.
The roots should wrap smoothly around the rock surface, following its natural lines. Over time, they thicken and fuse with the rock, showing age and maturity. We avoid crossing roots or leaving gaps, as this disrupts the natural flow and weakens the design.
Symbolically, Sekijoju represents trees growing in harsh, rocky terrain, such as cliffs or mountainsides. It captures the tenacity of nature, finding nourishment in limited soil and enduring over decades of weathering.
When composing, the rock must visually balance the tree. A rock that’s too small will eventually be engulfed, while one too large can overpower the composition. Rocks with good texture, colour, and interesting form create depth and realism. Trident Maples are a classic choice, often planted in shallow oval or rectangular pots with a dramatic central rock.
We start with the right rock. Porous stones like Seiryu, lava rock, or pumice work best because their rough texture lets roots grip easily. The rock should be larger than expected, as roots will thicken over the years. Clean it thoroughly to remove debris and stabilise it in the pot.
Next, we prepare the tree. A year before styling, plant it in a deep container to develop long, flexible roots—ideally 1.5–2 times the rock’s height. When ready, wash away the soil, trim damaged roots, and select 5–8 strong roots radiating evenly from the trunk.
Position the tree over the rock and drape the roots into crevices. Tie them down with soft raffia and wrap with grafting tape to hold them in place. To ensure the roots grow along the rock surface and not out, wrap the top 2/3s of the rock in aluminim foil. Plant the entire rock and root assembly in a large training pot, completely buried so the roots can bond with the rock. Use a mix of 50% Akadama, 25% compost, and 25% pumice for drainage and stability.
During the first 1–2 years, water regularly and fertilise after one month. Once roots adhere firmly, we gently expose the rock using a chopstick and soft brush and can remove the foil. After exposure, prune lightly to reduce stress and keep the tree shaded for several weeks.
Recommended species:
Pro tip: Secure roots section by section, starting near the trunk and working downward for tighter, cleaner adherence.
We create the Forest Style, or Yose-Ue, when we plant multiple trees together to form a miniature woodland. This design focuses on balance, depth, and natural flow, using varied tree heights and spacing to capture the feeling of a real forest on a small scale.
In Yose-Ue, we plant several individual trees in one shallow pot, each with its own root system. Together, they form the illusion of a natural forest or grove. The trees are placed at irregular distances and never in straight lines, giving a realistic, organic appearance.
We usually work with an odd number of trees: 3, 5, 7, 9, or 11. Once a forest includes more than 15 trees, the odd or even count matters less. A main or focal tree sits slightly off-centre, surrounded by smaller trees that add depth and perspective.
Two main perspectives guide design:
The overall silhouette forms an irregular triangular shape, unified by a shared canopy. Negative space between trunks keeps the scene open and layered.
| Design Type | Description | Skill Level |
|---|---|---|
| Yoma-Yose | Trees spread evenly across the pot for an open, airy forest | Beginner |
| Tsukami-Yose | Trees cluster tightly from a central area for a dense look | Advanced |
A famous example is “Goshin” by John Naka, featuring eleven Foemina Junipers arranged to represent strength, harmony, and the wisdom of an ancient forest.
We start by planning the composition carefully. Choose one tree species for harmony; Pines, Maples, Cryptomeria, or Elms work well. Gather trees of different sizes: a few tall “parent” trees, several medium, and smaller ones for depth. Beginners often begin with 5–7 trees, while advanced growers may use 15 or more.
Sketch the layout before planting. Place the main tree slightly off-centre, then group supporting trees around it. Avoid symmetry and straight lines. Leave small gaps to act as paths or clearings.
Select a large, shallow, unglazed pot in earthy tones. A flat stone or wooden slab can also serve as the base. Fill it with a bonsai mix of 50% Akadama, 25% Pumice, and 25% Lava rock for drainage and stability.
Planting sequence:
After planting, keep the composition in full shade for a month. Avoid pruning or styling until the next growing season. Over the next few years, we will refine individual trees, unify the canopy, and adjust spacing to maintain proportion.
For inspiration, we can explore Linear Movement Forests, Central Groves, or Raised Substrate Designs, each offering a different visual story.
We rely on a few essential tools and materials to shape and maintain advanced bonsai styles effectively. Each item supports precision, stability, and healthy growth across styles such as Raft, Root-Over-Rock, Exposed Root, and Forest.
Cutting and Pruning Tools
Wire and Support Materials
Soil and Additives
| Component | Function | Typical Use |
|---|---|---|
| Akadama | Moisture retention and drainage | 40–50 % of mix |
| Pumice | Aeration and drainage | 20–30 % of mix |
| Lava Rock | Structure and nutrients | 20–30 % of mix |
| Sphagnum Moss | Rooting medium | Raft, Root-Over-Rock |
| Keto Clay | Holds soil on rocks | Root-Over-Rock |
Maintenance Essentials
We can find these products through specialised bonsai suppliers online or locally, often as complete tool sets for better value.
Start with the raft. Of the four styles, Netsunagari in its Ikadabuki form is the most achievable in the shortest time and produces a result that would be impossible through any other method: a connected, multi-trunk composition from a single tree. The skills it develops, reading trunk movement, managing multiple growing points simultaneously, planning a composition before beginning, apply directly to all three other styles.
In our experience at Miyagi Bonsai, the most common mistake with advanced styles is beginning before the foundational skills are in place. A grower who has not developed a confident formal upright or informal upright first will struggle with the proportional judgements that Sekijoju and Neagari require. The artistic styles are not a shortcut to impressive results; they are a reward for sustained practice at the fundamentals.
Miyagi Bonsai stocks a carefully chosen range of bonsai trees, training pots, specialist tools, and materials for all four advanced styles, including deep training containers for Neagari development, wide shallow forest pots, lava rock and seiryu stone for Sekijoju, and aluminium and copper wiring kits; with next working day UK delivery available on most orders. The products and recommendations in this guide reflect what we stock, use and see working for our customers every day. We are rated 5 stars across over 100 Google reviews, and our team is on hand by email and phone if you have any questions about advanced bonsai styles, species selection, or styling technique.
Neagari (Exposed Roots) and Sekijoju (Root-Over-Rock) both feature prominent root structures, but they are fundamentally different in design and construction. In Neagari, the roots rise above the soil as natural extensions of the trunk, having been progressively exposed over the years as soil is removed, the roots themselves become the visual foundation of the composition.
In Sekijoju, the roots grip and cascade over a rock before reaching the soil below; the rock is a permanent, integral element of the design rather than a background feature. Neagari requires years of controlled soil removal from a specially prepared container; Sekijoju requires careful root placement around a specifically chosen rock and a multi-year bonding period. Both take five or more years to develop convincingly, but Sekijoju typically produces a more immediately dramatic composition in a shorter timeframe.
The Raft Style (Netsunagari) in its Ikadabuki variation is the most accessible advanced bonsai style for intermediate growers. A single tree with branches primarily on one side can be converted into a multi-trunk raft composition in a single session, and the unified root system means all trunks develop simultaneously, unlike sourcing multiple trees for a forest.
The result is impressive and develops relatively quickly over two to three years. Forest Style (Yose-Ue) in the Yoma-Yose form with five to seven trees is the second most accessible option, particularly for those who enjoy planning and composition. Both Neagari and Sekijoju require significantly longer development timelines and more advanced techniques.
Both Ikadabuki and Netsunagari are variations of the Raft Style, where branches from a single horizontal trunk develop into multiple upright trunks sharing one root system. The difference lies in the trunk’s orientation. In Ikadabuki (Straight-Line Raft), the horizontal trunk is straight, producing trunks in a relatively orderly row; easier to construct and more predictable in development.
In Netsunagari (Sinuous Root Connected), the trunk meanders and twists, producing irregular trunk spacing that more closely mimics a natural fallen tree. Netsunagari is more complex to design and execute, but produces a visually more dynamic and convincing composition. Both variations take two to four years from initial planting to a composed, stable result.
The best species for forest bonsai are those that produce consistent branching habits, fine ramification with patient pruning, and work visually when multiple specimens are grouped together. Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum) is among the finest; its autumn colour, fine foliage, and elegant branch structure create beautiful forest compositions through all four seasons.
Trident Maple, Cryptomeria, and Pine are widely used for their reliability and suitability to the style. Elm (Ulmus) is the most commonly recommended species for beginners to Yose-Ue; it roots reliably, responds well to pruning, and develops fine ramification quickly. For most Yose-Ue compositions, all trees should be the same species to ensure visual coherence and matching growth rates.
A root-over-rock bonsai (Sekijoju) typically takes three to five years before the roots adhere convincingly to the rock surface and can be partially exposed. In the first one to two years, the rock and root assembly is planted completely buried in a large training pot to encourage root bonding and growth. Once the roots are firmly adhered, the rock can be progressively exposed over the following years.
The full composition, with roots visibly gripping the rock and cascading to the soil, may take five to eight years from initial planting to reach a mature, exhibition-quality appearance. Trident Maple is the fastest-developing species for this style; Pine takes considerably longer but produces a more dramatic finished result.
Roots are secured to the rock using soft raffia or grafting tape, which holds them in the desired grooves and crevices without damaging the root tissue. The roots are positioned along the rock’s natural lines, following existing channels and textures, and tied down at regular intervals, working from the trunk downward.
The upper two-thirds of the rock is then wrapped in aluminium foil to encourage roots to grow along the surface rather than outward, and the entire rock and root assembly is buried in a large training pot. Over one to two years, the roots bond with the rock surface through natural growth pressure. Once bonded, the foil and raffia are removed, and the rock is gradually exposed. Porous rocks, lava rock, seiryu, or pumice, provide the best grip for developing roots.
Goshin is a forest bonsai created by Japanese-American bonsai master John Yoshio Naka, consisting of eleven Foemina Junipers planted in the Yose-Ue style. Naka began the composition in 1948, dedicating one tree to each of his grandchildren, and donated the completed work to the United States National Arboretum in Washington DC in 1984 where it remains on public display. The name Goshin translates as “protector of the spirit.”
It is one of the most studied and referenced forest bonsai compositions in the world; widely cited as a demonstration of how balance, depth, varied trunk heights, and negative space create an authentic sense of a natural woodland in miniature form. For bonsai students, Goshin represents both a technical benchmark and a model for approaching Yose-Ue design.
